3 Days in Lisbon: Trams, Tiled Streets & the Best Pastéis de Nata

Few European cities pack as much into a long weekend as Lisbon. It's built across seven hills above the Tagus, washed in a light that photographers cross the continent for, and small enough to cover on foot — if your legs are up to the climbs. Three days is the sweet spot: enough to see the famous neighbourhoods, eat extremely well, and still have an unhurried coffee on a tiled terrace. Here's how to spend them, whether you're going as a couple, with friends, or solo.

Day 1: The old town — Baixa, Alfama & a tram ride

Start in Baixa, the grid of grand squares rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake. Walk through Praça do Comércio down by the river, then up the pedestrian streets to Rossio. From here, do the thing everyone does and do it early: ride tram 28, the rattling yellow line that screeches up through the old quarters. Hop off in Alfama, Lisbon's oldest neighbourhood — a maze of stairways, washing lines and tiled façades tumbling down toward the water.

Climb to São Jorge Castle for the city's best panorama, then wander down past the Sé cathedral and the Miradouro das Portas do Sol, one of the viewpoints (miradouros) that the city is built around. In the evening, let the sound of Fado — Portugal's mournful, beautiful folk music — pull you into a small tavern for dinner.

Day 2: Belém & the riverside

Head west along the river to Belém, the district of grand monuments from Portugal's age of exploration. The Jerónimos Monastery and the riverside Belém Tower are the headline sights; the Padrão dos Descobrimentos stands between them on the waterfront. But the real pilgrimage is to the café that has been baking pastéis de Belém since 1837 — the original custard tart, served warm with cinnamon. Expect a queue; join it anyway.

On the way back, stop at LX Factory, a cluster of old industrial buildings under the big red bridge, now full of design shops, bookstores and places to eat. It's the easy, modern counterweight to a morning of monuments.

Day 3: Bairro Alto, Príncipe Real & a day-trip choice

Spend a relaxed morning in Chiado and Príncipe Real — elegant streets, independent shops, and leafy squares — before the steep lanes of Bairro Alto, sleepy by day and the heart of the city's nightlife after dark. If you'd rather trade the city for a day, two classic escapes sit within an easy train ride:

• Sintra — a fairy-tale hill town of palaces and gardens, about 40 minutes away. The candy-coloured Pena Palace and the mysterious Quinta da Regaleira are the must-sees. Go early; it gets very busy.
• Cascais — a breezy seaside town on the same coastal line, ideal if you want a beach afternoon and a seafood lunch instead.

What to eat (beyond the custard tarts)

Lisbon eats brilliantly and affordably. Beyond pastéis de nata, look for a bifana (a marinated pork sandwich, the city's great cheap lunch), bacalhau (salt cod, prepared a hundred ways), and grilled fresh fish at a no-frills marisqueira. If you visit in June, you'll catch the tail of the Festas de Lisboa, when Alfama fills with grilled sardines and street parties. Toast it all with a tiny glass of ginjinha, the sour-cherry liqueur sold from hole-in-the-wall counters downtown.

Practical tips

• Getting around: The centre is walkable but steep — bring proper shoes. A rechargeable transport card covers the metro, trams and the funiculars that save your legs on the worst climbs.
• When to go: Spring and early autumn are gentlest; high summer is hot and busy, but the long evenings are glorious.
• Stay central: A base in Baixa, Chiado or Príncipe Real puts most of this on foot.
• Costs: Lisbon remains one of Western Europe's better-value capitals — easy to do well without overspending, and easy to split fairly if you're a group.

Three days, seven hills, and more custard tarts than you'll admit to. Lisbon rewards travellers who slow down, climb a little, and follow the light — it's one of the easiest great weekends in Europe.